Adventure in Cambodia: Temples, Trails and Traditions

We arrived a couple of days before the tour to acclimatise to the country and experience some of Siem Reap – it's not just about UNESCO listed Angkor Wat. This included an excellent Siem Reap Countryside Bike Tour.

We flew into the brand new Chinese-built airport in Siem Reap. Fortunately we were met by Hoem, our support van driver and guide for the tour, as the airport was 50km from town along the also new Chinese-built motorway.

The hotel was great - throughout the trip our accommodations were well-chosen by Social Cycles, with the air-conditioning in particular providing a welcome break from the heat and humidity outside, ensuring a comfortable night's sleep. I was particularly struck by the universal power points in most hotels - a fantastic idea (why doesn't every country do this?).

Day 1: Siem Reap
At the hotel in Siem Reap we met up with new friend and cycling companion, Kate, the only other guest for the tour. The adventure started with delivery of the bikes by our guides, Hoem and So - So would be riding with us. These two guys were invaluable and great fun to be with as they were full of information and looked after us so well. The Trek 29” mountain bikes were incredibly comfortable, and we couldn't resist the gel seats they came with!

Day 2: Angkor Complex
At dawn, we cycled out to the Angkor complex, where we were greeted by the breathtaking sight of temples bathed in the morning light. Exploring the temples on bikes allowed us to move at our own pace, taking in the stunning scenery and rich history. We marvelled at the intricate carvings of Angkor Wat at sunrise, pedalled through the grand gates of Angkor Thom to see the enigmatic faces of the Bayon Temple, and rode under the jungle canopy to Ta Prohm, where massive tree roots intertwined with ancient stone ruins. It felt like stepping into a scene from a Lara Croft movie! The round trip was about 33km.

In the afternoon, we visited our first NGO (non-governmental organisation), This Life, and had a personal meeting with the director. It was inspiring to see how they work with families and local communities to improve lives - for example one program significantly reduced recidivism rates after prison.

Dinner was a surprise and a real treat - we were invited into Hoem’s abode for a delicious home-cooked Khmer meal, cooked by his wife.

Day 3: Siem Reap to Battambang
We cycled from Siem Reap to Battambang, broken up by a 3½ hour boat ride on Tonle Sap lake and river - the largest freshwater lake in Southeast Asia. The floating villages were fascinating, and we even stopped at a floating crocodile farm. Lunch was a delicious fried rice with pork, courtesy of Mrs. Hoem. The birdlife was abundant, with egrets, herons, ibises, storks, and occasional cormorants. The river, which rises up to 17m higher during the rainy season, feeds into the lake from the Mekong River. Due to low water levels in the dry season, we had to disembark earlier than usual and ride along a challenging rough, dusty road for about 10km.

Dinner was at Jaan Bai, one of the best restaurants in Cambodia, which is a vocational training social enterprise connected to the Cambodian Children’s Trust.

Day 4: Battambang to Phnom Banon
We rode south from Battambang to Phnom Banon, stopping at a temple in Bay Damram for a Buddhist blessing. The 48km ride took us past food stands, where some of our group (not me!) tried grilled rat. In the afternoon, we visited Sustainable Cambodia (SC), an NGO partnered with Rotary International in the US and Australia. SC helps rural Cambodian families create sustainable lives with safe water, sanitation, sustainable incomes, healthy food, and quality education for their children. We received a full presentation from the executives and toured their facilities.

Day 5: Pursat to Phnom Penh
We took the support van through Pursat to the southern end of Tonle Sap, then rode the last 70km into Phnom Penh, arriving right at our hotel. The stark contrast between the opulent development for Cambodia's elites and the much poorer conditions of most residents was evident, although the capital as a whole was a step above the rest of the country. Dinner was at Romdeng restaurant, a social enterprise from the Friends International team, whom we would visit the next day.

Day 6: Phnom Penh
We took a break from biking and hopped onto tuk-tuks for a rest day. We had a presentation from Friends International and learned from the pioneers of the ChildSafe Movement. Then, we embarked on a tuk-tuk rally around Phnom Penh, visiting their sites and seeing their work in action.

After lunch, we visited the Tuol Sleng “Killing Fields” Genocide museum, a former school turned deadly Khmer Rouge interrogation and detention centre. It was a sobering experience, with thousands of photos commemorating the victims of the Khmer Rouge regime.

Dinner was a Khmer barbeque, giving us a chance to reflect on the day and our journey so far.

Day 7: Phnom Chisor
We rode 65km out of Phnom Penh to the mountain temple, Phnom Chisor. Cycling through remote villages and waterways on narrow dirt tracks, we reached the temple at the top of a 130m hill, built in the 11th century, about 200 years before Angkor Wat. Along the way though we gatecrashed a wedding! We were in no way trespassing though as the marquee had been erected on top of the road through the village.

Afterward, we took the support van to Kampot.

Day 8: Bokor Mountain Challenge
The Bokor Mountain Challenge was a highlight, with a 20km ride to the National Park followed by a fantastic 20km climb with a 5% gradient that took us 3 hours. The descent was much more fun and only took 35 minutes! We spent the evening exploring the town.

Day 9: Kampot
We visited the Chumkriel Language School, guided by Mr. T, and visited the salt fields and sheds that provide local employment. The school offers education to children in this poor rural community, which often even lacks access to clean water. As with all NGOs, donations play a crucial role in their success. After a break at the hotel, we enjoyed a fun cooking class and dinner at Kampot Seafood & Pepper, where we cooked and savoured dishes like Mango Salad, Spring Rolls, Amok Fish, Lok Lak Beef, and Khmer Chicken Curry. We also discussed the NGOs and decided where our donation would go, as part of the tour cost.

Day 10: Kampot to Kep
We started with a short 20km ride to the La Plantation Pepper Farm, where a guided walk and tasting introduced us to the world of spice. From there, we rode another 20km to the crab market in Kep, feasting on fresh crab, squid, and fish cooked with pepper. We then cycled another 20km to the Vietnam border, bidding farewell to Kate, who continued on to Saigon. We returned to Phnom Penh by van.

♢♢♢

Our journey through Cambodia was far more than just a cycling adventure—it was an immersive exploration of the country’s rich history, vibrant culture, and resilient communities. From the awe-inspiring temples of Angkor at sunrise to the bustling streets of Phnom Penh and the tranquil countryside of Kampot and Kep, every day brought new discoveries and meaningful connections. The opportunity to engage with local NGOs and social enterprises added depth to our travels, allowing us to witness firsthand the positive impact of grassroots initiatives on Cambodian society. The warmth and hospitality of our guides, the camaraderie among fellow travellers, and the unforgettable landscapes made this tour truly special. As we reflect on our experiences, we leave Cambodia with a deeper appreciation for its people, its past, and its ongoing journey toward a brighter future.

Route maps and data

Social Cycles is a valued partner of Cycle Tours Global but the views and impressions are all my own.

Also check out: All Cambodia Bike Tours - the Best and the Rest
Exploring Cambodia by Bike
Rural Revelations: Exploring Siem Reap's Countryside