Rural Revelations: Exploring Siem Reap's Countryside

By Bruce Robertson

Bruce Robertson

The journey began early in the morning as we were met at our hotel at 7:30 am by our guide, Muen, and host from Elephant Bike Tours, Vireak. Our half-day tour around Siem Reap promised adventure and discovery. Siem Reap is not just about access to Angkor Wat!

We were provided with comfortable mountain bikes for the dirt tracks and country roads. The first few kilometres took us through the outskirts of town, passing by stunning temples and pagodas, many with family stupas (mausoleums) that stood as solemn sentinels of history and tradition. As we rode, the urban landscape gradually gave way to the Cambodian countryside.

Because this was the dry season, the region wasn’t at its busiest but there was plenty of agricultural activity. Irrigation by canals and waterways ensured that some of the land remained productive. We pedalled past fields of winter rice, most rice being grown during the rainy or wet season. The sight of 'Morning Glory', or water spinach, filled the fields with its lush greenery. This staple vegetable crop is a crucial and delicious part of the local diet, thriving in or close to the water.

Livestock, usually tethered to control where and what they could eat, dotted the landscape. Their presence was a reminder of the symbiotic relationship between the people and their animals, crucial for both agriculture and daily sustenance. We also saw lotus plants, their delicate flowers floating on ponds, adding splashes of pink and white to the local scenery.

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Bruce Robertson & Rob McMaster

One of the most intriguing stops on our tour was a local mushroom farm. Here, we learned about the cultivation process from the farmer, with our guides acting as interpreters. This enterprise provides year-round income, a significant advantage given that so much of agriculture is seasonally based.

Our journey continued as we ventured through several bustling street markets. These markets were a hive of activity, filled with busy stalls. They are the local equivalent of Western supermarkets and department stores, offering clothing, fruit, meat, vegetables, homewares and more. The vibrant colours and the mix of aromas from the various foods being sold were both overwhelming and delightful.

As we navigated through the throngs of people, I noticed how these markets were not just places of commerce but social hubs where locals gathered, exchanged news, and strengthened community bonds. The market's energy was infectious, and it was impossible not to get caught up in the excitement – and tastes - of it all.

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Our tour, though just a few hours long, offered a deep dive into the rural heart of Cambodia. From the sacred tranquillity of ancient pagodas to the lively chaos of the markets, it was a journey that revealed the layers of life in Siem Reap beyond its famed temples. As we cycled back to our starting point, I felt a profound appreciation for the resilience and vibrancy of the Cambodian countryside.

Siem Reap had indeed shown me that it was much more than just the gateway to Angkor Wat; it was a place where history, culture, and daily life intertwined seamlessly, offering an experience that was as enriching as it was unforgettable.