Meeting David, our guide from [Belfast City Bike Tours](/tour/belfast-city-bike-tours), at an opulent community space in the heart of Belfast, set an intriguing tone for our adventure. This heritage-listed building, a former bank and Tesco supermarket, felt like a perfect metaphor for Belfast itself: historic yet vibrantly modern. We mounted our comfortable yellow ex-Chinese rental Ofo bikes. A light drizzle greeted us early on, but soon enough, the clouds parted, and the day brightened to a warm and mostly sunny adventure.

Belfast, or Béal Feirste, meaning the mouth of the Farset River, is steeped in nautical and riparian heritage, a theme that echoed throughout our tour. The city’s history of linen production and later, its engineering feats, especially shipbuilding, made it one of the most prosperous regions in the British Isles during the 19th and early 20th centuries. Despite this rich history, Belfast is perhaps best known for disaster and terrorism - its association with the Titanic and the turbulent times of "The Troubles." These narratives are now seamlessly woven into the fabric of modern Belfast, enriching its tourism experience with layers of historical depth.

Our first stop was City Hall, a popular photo opportunity and historic landmark in Donegall Square, the heart of the city. A free guided tour of the beautiful Baroque Revival building is recommended. The grounds contain the Titanic Memorial Garden, and The Cenotaph and Garden of Remembrance.

Next was St George’s Market, a lively place buzzing with energy. Although our initial visit was brief, it was enough to entice us back the next morning for a Northern Irish breakfast, accompanied by a traditional music session that added a delightful local flavor to our experience.

We cycled past the leaning Albert Clock, built on timber foundations that have caused it to tilt over the years. Nearby, we encountered the Big Fish, a striking ceramic tile-cladded statue and time capsule erected in 1999 to celebrate the regeneration of the River Lagan and the historic importance of the site, adding a touch of modern art to our historical journey. Street art was another vibrant element of the tour, with numerous murals and installations revitalizing the city's aesthetic and discouraging graffiti whilst enlivening previously rundown areas.. Unlike Derry, Belfast's street art is predominantly non-political. 

Our ride led us to the Titanic Quarter, home to the Titanic Museum, deservedly the top tourist attraction in Belfast. We admired the outline of the ship’s top deck on the ground, a solemn reminder of the famously inadequate lifeboats. Visiting the museum is a must-do - time-based ticketing ensure that it doesn't really get too crowded. Nearby is the Titanic Studios, where many parts of "Game of Thrones" was filmed, now commemorated by a wonderful series of stained glass installations around the quarter. Odyssey Place, resonating with the sounds of the dockyards, further enriched the experience.

The city is perhaps best known for disaster and terrorism, now both seamlessly woven into the fabric of modern, vibrant Belfast.

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Wheels and Walls: A Bike Tour of Belfast’s Historic and Cultural Landmarks

This Irish end-to-end mostly follows the spectacular Wild Atlantic Way winding up along the West Coast of Ireland.

Rob & I were lucky enough to join a group of 12 other riders from the US, Scotland, England, Ireland, Australia and Switzerland for this fantastic ride from the most southerly point in Ireland to the most northerly. Our tour was superbly guided and supported by John and Paul - not [those ones](/blog/magical-mystery-tour-of-liverpool)! We were quite a mixed bunch of ages (30s to 70s) and riding abilities, both of which I'd say put us in the middle.

For us the weather was a mixture of sunshine and clouds with only the occasional shower. 

The GPS directions and support from the [Wild Atlantic Cycling](/tour/wild-atlantic-cycling) guys were top notch and made it so easy - all you had to do was ride and admire the gorgeous countryside. Although some riders were so enthusiastic they overshot the regrouping points on a few occasions 😃.

 

#### Day 1 - Arrival Day in Cork
Our group travelled from all directions by train, plane and automobile. Riders who brought their own bikes assembled them in the briefing room, ready for tomorrow. Paul gave a very thorough run down of what to expect and what was happening when and where, and then took some of us down to get set up with hire bikes. We got to know some of our fellow riders at the briefing and later in the hotel dining room and bar. The others will wait till tomorrow!

 

#### Day 2 - Mizen Head to Glengarriff 
The day started with a 2¼ hour coach trip down from Cork. The countryside was beautiful and a great introduction of what to expect for the next week - except it's always better on a bike! 
I can see that Mizen Head could be very bleak and windy ... but not today! 
We had a warm mostly sunny morning, Rob and I stopped in pretty Durrus for a coffee and catch up with my cousin Ruth who happens to live there! After lunch there were a couple of brief showers as we rounded the top of Bantry Bay. 
The group became quite strung out partially due to some of us succumbing to the irresistible urge to stop and take photos of the stunning countryside of West Cork. However we all made it to the hotel with plenty of time to relax and later had dinner together at a nice pub in Glengarriff. 
*61 km, 540 m climbing*

 

#### Day 3 - Glengarriff to Killarney
There was an earlier start to the cycling as there was no bus transfer. This was good as the urge to take photos only intensified - I gave into the urge over and over again! The Day 3 gallery below is just a small selection.... 
There were three climbs with three fantastic descents - the Caha Pass, Moll's Gap and the Gap of Dunloe. The latter was busier between cars, walkers, other cyclists and horses pulling traditional jaunting cars. 
The scenery was absolutely spectacular and the mix of sunshine and cloud created shadows that only added to the breathtaking views. My 'sub-group' only experienced a couple of lights showers but some roads showed the evidence of having seen much heavier rain which we just missed! 
Today has set a very high bar for coming days ... 
Killarney is a great spot for music and the craic. Had an Irish Stew for dinner and then an ice cream to finish - Irish Brown Bread and Chocolate Whiskey flavour! A grand end to the day. 
*71 km, 870 m climbing*

This Irish end-to-end mostly follows the spectacular Wild Atlantic Way winding up along the West Coast of Ireland.

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My Adventure along the Wild Atlantic Way

Having spent an awesome [St. Rupert’s Day](https://www.salzburg.info/en/events/highlights/st-rupert-s-day-fair) (weekend) in Salzburg we got the train to Passau. Due to the Central European floods, part of the train line was closed, leading to a longer journey on a different train. This was the first of several itinerary changes we encountered during the week, but they were mere inconveniences compared to the challenges faced by the residents in the affected areas. [Rad + Reisen](/tour/rad-reisen-eurocycle), our tour operator, had informed us via email that the boat couldn’t dock at the planned point, and we would be bused to a new dock.

Upon arrival at the rendezvous, we were surprised to learn that we were heading to Vienna, a three-hour drive away, as the boat couldn't get any further upriver at that stage. Three buses had been chartered for the 140 guests, and Leslie and Barbara kept us updated with the latest information. Despite the changes, we arrived at the boat with enough time to settle in and freshen up before enjoying an excellent buffet-style welcome dinner in the on-board restaurant. Throughout the week, the restaurant became our main hangout – with the bar only narrowly behind! Tables were pre-allocated for the week – our group of seven had our own table. Dinner was usually a set menu, pre-ordered before the day’s cycling, while breakfast was a satisfying buffet with plenty of choice. We were encouraged to take something for lunch, but there were many opportunities to explore local bars and cafés along the way. For those not riding on a particular day, lunch was provided on the boat.

After dinner, we headed to the bar for our first daily briefing from Leslie, the tour director. He showed us some recent photos of flood-affected areas, making it clear that we wouldn’t be sailing to Budapest as scheduled. The river was too high to pass under bridges, and several locks were blocked by debris. Our itinerary would be changed, with several excursions rescheduled and a new bus tour added for those disappointed about missing Budapest.

Credit goes to Leslie, the boat staff, and the Rad + Reisen office for reorganizing and rescheduling to ensure we had a fantastic holiday. The changes involved rebooking local guides and experiences, staffing adjustments, reprovisioning, docking, and other logistics. Well done, everyone – you are all legends!

On the first night, we sailed to Bratislava, where we woke up the next morning. The gentle movement of the boat had rocked us to sleep. We stayed in Bratislava for two nights, normally I’d welcome a two-night stay as it meant no repacking and changing hotels, but this week it happened every day! There was a newly scheduled out-and-back ride to charming Hainberg that mostly followed the Danube, with evidence of the water having receded by several meters. Many fields and crops had been devastated, but the paths and quiet roads were clear, revealing beautiful countryside and vistas. The weather was mostly warm and sunny - there was some rain later in the week, which is normal for late September. We crossed from Slovakia back into Austria and then on to Hainberg, a pretty town where we stopped near the Haydn fountain for coffees and ice cream. On the way back, we stopped at a cute riverside bar for a beverage or two – this was a very relaxed tour with daily rides of under 50km.

From Floods to Fun - our Danube Bike & Boat Tour was at the mercy of the river which dictated the route.

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Waltzing Along the Danube: A Cycling Adventure

The Netherlands is (rightly) known as having the best cycling infrastructure in the world as well as having the flattest terrain. The country is also world famous for its cut flowers, especially tulips. So, anticipation for a world beating tour was high! 
*Fun fact: tulips are not native here – they are native to Türkiye – but have been bred and cultivated to the wide variety of types and colours that now exist. *

This was an 8-day tour from [Yubike Tours](/tour/yubike-tours) with 5 days of cycling. It started and finished in Amsterdam and followed a loop mostly through the province of South Holland. We stayed aboard the barge *Anna van Aemstel* (formerly *Wending*) which meant than we only had to unpack once for the week - a luxury for a bike tour!

After a leisurely afternoon, on the first evening Jeroen, the skipper, gave an informal briefing on safety and on the newly refurbished barge – which was only on its second outing since relaunch. Especially useful operations information came from the amazing Amerens, who was the housekeeper, restaurant manager, operations manager as well as assistant to the skipper, especially through locks and for relief driving. Our chef on board for the week was Theo whose fantastic meals were like they came straight out of a Michelin starred restaurant! At dinnertime he also gave us background to most dishes as well as the recipes.
 
Carlos and Michaela, our excellent and friendly guides, gave us a run down on the cycling and route changes as well as some general background. We were only 12 guests - there were vacant rooms - so introductions didn’t take long. We got to know each other pretty quickly - having common interests like travel and cycling always makes this process quick and easy. 

There were to be some itinerary changes due to certain bridges being closed. This meant more sailing time and changing the route and days around a bit - with no loss to cycling or tulip time! The guides and crew managed this so well we hardly noticed.

Later that afternoon we motored out of Amsterdam to the east and then south for almost 3 hours to Vianan to moor for the night. En route we enjoyed the first of Theo’s fantastic dinners, all while watching the countryside pass by and being fascinated by passing through several locks on the way.

**Day 2 Vianan to Gouda** 
We woke to wall-to-wall warm blue skies, despite a chilly start to the day. Carlos and Michaela distributed our pre-booked hire bikes, and we tested them. The mix of standard and e-bikes were suitably comfortable and popular - as were the bright orange panniers that distinguished them from the other tour groups with whom we crossed paths. We then rode through the lovely medieval village of Vianan and into picture postcard Dutch countryside. 

A short ferry ride across the river Lek led to morning tea stop in pretty Lopik, then 10km later by bike was lunch in Schoonhoven – with beers to supplement our picnic lunches from the boat’s breakfast buffet.
Today’s ride finished in stunning and historic Gouda which was far more than just the world-famous cheese. Over more beers in the main square some locals recommended a bakery that did the best stroopwafels in town. Of course we had to try them, and they were fantastic - much cheaper and nicer than in touristy Amsterdam.

It was then back to the boat, moored nearby after travelling from Vianan, for some afternoon tea or a glass of wine from the self-managed bar on-board. The barge stayed overnight in Gouda.

Expectations were high for this bike & barge tour in a country famous for its world-beating cycling infrastructure and also its tulips.

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