The journey began early in the morning as we were met at our hotel at 7:30 am by our guide, Muen, and host from [Elephant Bike Tours,](/tour/elephant-bike-tours) Vireak. Our half-day tour around Siem Reap promised adventure and discovery. Siem Reap is not just about access to Angkor Wat! 

We were provided with comfortable mountain bikes for the dirt tracks and country roads. The first few kilometres took us through the outskirts of town, passing by stunning temples and pagodas, many with family stupas (mausoleums) that stood as solemn sentinels of history and tradition. As we rode, the urban landscape gradually gave way to the Cambodian countryside.

Because this was the dry season, the region wasn’t at its busiest but there was plenty of agricultural activity. Irrigation by canals and waterways ensured that some of the land remained productive. We pedalled past fields of winter rice, most rice being grown during the rainy or wet season. The sight of 'Morning Glory', or water spinach, filled the fields with its lush greenery. This staple vegetable crop is a crucial and delicious part of the local diet, thriving in or close to the water.

Livestock, usually tethered to control where and what they could eat, dotted the landscape. Their presence was a reminder of the symbiotic relationship between the people and their animals, crucial for both agriculture and daily sustenance. We also saw lotus plants, their delicate flowers floating on ponds, adding splashes of pink and white to the local scenery.

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Siem Reap is much more than just the gateway to Angkor Wat. This tour reveals the layers of life in the region beyond the famed temples. 

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Rural Revelations: Exploring Siem Reap's Countryside

Meeting David, our guide from [Belfast City Bike Tours](/tour/belfast-city-bike-tours), at an opulent community space in the heart of Belfast, set an intriguing tone for our adventure. This heritage-listed building, a former bank and Tesco supermarket, felt like a perfect metaphor for Belfast itself: historic yet vibrantly modern. We mounted our comfortable yellow ex-Chinese rental Ofo bikes. A light drizzle greeted us early on, but soon enough, the clouds parted, and the day brightened to a warm and mostly sunny adventure.

Belfast, or Béal Feirste, meaning the mouth of the Farset River, is steeped in nautical and riparian heritage, a theme that echoed throughout our tour. The city’s history of linen production and later, its engineering feats, especially shipbuilding, made it one of the most prosperous regions in the British Isles during the 19th and early 20th centuries. Despite this rich history, Belfast is perhaps best known for disaster and terrorism - its association with the Titanic and the turbulent times of "The Troubles." These narratives are now seamlessly woven into the fabric of modern Belfast, enriching its tourism experience with layers of historical depth.

Our first stop was City Hall, a popular photo opportunity and historic landmark in Donegall Square, the heart of the city. A free guided tour of the beautiful Baroque Revival building is recommended. The grounds contain the Titanic Memorial Garden, and The Cenotaph and Garden of Remembrance.

Next was St George’s Market, a lively place buzzing with energy. Although our initial visit was brief, it was enough to entice us back the next morning for a Northern Irish breakfast, accompanied by a traditional music session that added a delightful local flavor to our experience.

We cycled past the leaning Albert Clock, built on timber foundations that have caused it to tilt over the years. Nearby, we encountered the Big Fish, a striking ceramic tile-cladded statue and time capsule erected in 1999 to celebrate the regeneration of the River Lagan and the historic importance of the site, adding a touch of modern art to our historical journey. Street art was another vibrant element of the tour, with numerous murals and installations revitalizing the city's aesthetic and discouraging graffiti whilst enlivening previously rundown areas.. Unlike Derry, Belfast's street art is predominantly non-political. 

Our ride led us to the Titanic Quarter, home to the Titanic Museum, deservedly the top tourist attraction in Belfast. We admired the outline of the ship’s top deck on the ground, a solemn reminder of the famously inadequate lifeboats. Visiting the museum is a must-do - time-based ticketing ensure that it doesn't really get too crowded. Nearby is the Titanic Studios, where many parts of "Game of Thrones" was filmed, now commemorated by a wonderful series of stained glass installations around the quarter. Odyssey Place, resonating with the sounds of the dockyards, further enriched the experience.

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The city is perhaps best known for disaster and terrorism, now both seamlessly woven into the fabric of modern, vibrant Belfast.

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Wheels and Walls: A Bike Tour of Belfast’s Historic and Cultural Landmarks

Having spent an awesome [St. Rupert’s Day](https://www.salzburg.info/en/events/highlights/st-rupert-s-day-fair) (weekend) in Salzburg we got the train to Passau. Due to the Central European Floods, part of the train line was closed, leading to a longer journey on a different train. This was the first of several itinerary changes we encountered during the week, but they were mere inconveniences compared to the challenges faced by the residents in the affected areas. [Rad + Reisen](/tour/rad-reisen-eurocycle), our tour operator, had informed us via email that the boat couldn’t dock at the planned point, and we would be bused to a new dock.

Upon arrival at the rendezvous, we were surprised to learn that we were heading to Vienna, a three-hour drive away, as the boat couldn't get any further upriver at that stage. Three buses had been chartered for the 140 guests, and Leslie and Barbara kept us updated with the latest information. Despite the changes, we arrived at the boat with enough time to settle in and freshen up before enjoying an excellent buffet-style welcome dinner in the on-board restaurant. Throughout the week, the restaurant became our main hangout – with the bar only narrowly behind! Tables were pre-allocated for the week – our group of seven had our own table. Dinner was usually a set menu, pre-ordered before the day’s cycling, while breakfast was a satisfying buffet with plenty of choice. We were encouraged to take something for lunch, but there were many opportunities to explore local bars and cafés along the way. For those not riding on a particular day, lunch was provided on the boat.

After dinner, we headed to the bar for our first daily briefing from Leslie, the tour director. He showed us some recent photos of flood-affected areas, making it clear that we wouldn’t be sailing to Budapest as scheduled. The river was too high to pass under bridges, and several locks were blocked by debris. Our itinerary would be changed, with several excursions rescheduled and a new bus tour added for those disappointed about missing Budapest.

Credit goes to Leslie, the boat staff, and the Rad + Reisen office for reorganizing and rescheduling to ensure we had a fantastic holiday. The changes involved rebooking local guides and experiences, staffing adjustments, reprovisioning, docking, and other logistics. Well done, everyone – you are all legends!

On the first night, we sailed to Bratislava, where we woke up the next morning. The gentle movement of the boat had rocked us to sleep. We stayed in Bratislava for two nights, normally I’d welcome a two-night stay as it meant no repacking and changing hotels, but this week it happened every day! There was a newly scheduled out-and-back ride to charming Hainberg that mostly followed the Danube, with evidence of the water having receded by several meters. Many fields and crops had been devastated, but the paths and quiet roads were clear, revealing beautiful countryside and vistas. The weather was mostly warm and sunny -  there was some rain later in the week, which is normal for late September. We crossed from Slovakia back into Austria and then on to Hainberg, a pretty town where we stopped near the Haydn fountain for coffees and ice cream. On the way back, we stopped at a cute riverside bar for a beverage or two – this was a very relaxed tour with daily rides of under 50km.

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From Floods to Fun - our Danube Bike & Boat Tour was at the mercy of the river which dictated the route.

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