We arrived a couple of days before the tour to acclimatise to the country and experience some of Siem Reap – it's not just about UNESCO listed Angkor Wat. This included an excellent [Siem Reap Countryside Bike Tour](/blog/siem-reap-countryside). 

We flew into the brand new Chinese-built airport in Siem Reap. Fortunately we were met by Hoem, our support van driver and guide for the tour, as the airport was 50km from town along the also new Chinese-built motorway.

The hotel was great - throughout the trip our accommodations were well-chosen by [Social Cycles](/tour/social-cycles), with the air-conditioning in particular providing a welcome break from the heat and humidity outside, ensuring a comfortable night's sleep. I was particularly struck by the universal power points in most hotels - a fantastic idea (why doesn't every country do this?).

**Day 1: Siem Reap**  
At the hotel in Siem Reap we met up with new friend and cycling companion, Kate, the only other guest for the tour. The adventure started with delivery of the bikes by our guides, Hoem and So - So would be riding with us. These two guys were invaluable and great fun to be with as they were full of information and looked after us so well.  The Trek 29” mountain bikes were incredibly comfortable, and we couldn't resist the gel seats they came with!

**Day 2: Angkor Complex**  
At dawn, we cycled out to the Angkor complex, where we were greeted by the breathtaking sight of temples bathed in the morning light. Exploring the temples on bikes allowed us to move at our own pace, taking in the stunning scenery and rich history. We marvelled at the intricate carvings of Angkor Wat at sunrise, pedalled through the grand gates of Angkor Thom to see the enigmatic faces of the Bayon Temple, and rode under the jungle canopy to Ta Prohm, where massive tree roots intertwined with ancient stone ruins. It felt like stepping into a scene from a Lara Croft movie! The round trip was about 33km.

In the afternoon, we visited our first NGO (non-governmental organisation), [This Life](https://thislife.ngo/), and had a personal meeting with the director. It was inspiring to see how they work with families and local communities to improve lives - for example one program significantly reduced recidivism rates after prison. 

Dinner was a surprise and a real treat - we were invited into Hoem’s abode for a delicious home-cooked Khmer meal, cooked by his wife.

**Day 3: Siem Reap to Battambang**  
We cycled from Siem Reap to Battambang, broken up by a 3½ hour boat ride on Tonle Sap lake and river - the largest freshwater lake in Southeast Asia. The floating villages were fascinating, and we even stopped at a floating crocodile farm. Lunch was a delicious fried rice with pork, courtesy of Mrs. Hoem. The birdlife was abundant, with egrets, herons, ibises, storks, and occasional cormorants. The river, which rises up to 17m higher during the rainy season, feeds into the lake from the Mekong River. Due to low water levels in the dry season, we had to disembark earlier than usual and ride along a challenging rough, dusty road for about 10km. 

Dinner was at [Jaan Bai](https://cambodianchildrenstrust.org/jaan-bai-restaurant/), one of the best restaurants in Cambodia, which is a vocational training social enterprise connected to the [Cambodian Children’s Trust](https://cambodianchildrenstrust.org).

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An adventurous and enriching journey featuring historical sites, cultural experiences, and interactions with local communities and NGOs.

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Adventure in Cambodia: Temples, Trails and Traditions

Having spent an awesome [St. Rupert’s Day](https://www.salzburg.info/en/events/highlights/st-rupert-s-day-fair) (weekend) in Salzburg we got the train to Passau. Due to the Central European floods, part of the train line was closed, leading to a longer journey on a different train. This was the first of several itinerary changes we encountered during the week, but they were mere inconveniences compared to the challenges faced by the residents in the affected areas. [Rad + Reisen](/tour/rad-reisen-eurocycle), our tour operator, had informed us via email that the boat couldn’t dock at the planned point, and we would be bused to a new dock.

Upon arrival at the rendezvous, we were surprised to learn that we were heading to Vienna, a three-hour drive away, as the boat couldn't get any further upriver at that stage. Three buses had been chartered for the 140 guests, and Leslie and Barbara kept us updated with the latest information. Despite the changes, we arrived at the boat with enough time to settle in and freshen up before enjoying an excellent buffet-style welcome dinner in the on-board restaurant. Throughout the week, the restaurant became our main hangout – with the bar only narrowly behind! Tables were pre-allocated for the week – our group of seven had our own table. Dinner was usually a set menu, pre-ordered before the day’s cycling, while breakfast was a satisfying buffet with plenty of choice. We were encouraged to take something for lunch, but there were many opportunities to explore local bars and cafés along the way. For those not riding on a particular day, lunch was provided on the boat.

After dinner, we headed to the bar for our first daily briefing from Leslie, the tour director. He showed us some recent photos of flood-affected areas, making it clear that we wouldn’t be sailing to Budapest as scheduled. The river was too high to pass under bridges, and several locks were blocked by debris. Our itinerary would be changed, with several excursions rescheduled and a new bus tour added for those disappointed about missing Budapest.

Credit goes to Leslie, the boat staff, and the Rad + Reisen office for reorganizing and rescheduling to ensure we had a fantastic holiday. The changes involved rebooking local guides and experiences, staffing adjustments, reprovisioning, docking, and other logistics. Well done, everyone – you are all legends!

On the first night, we sailed to Bratislava, where we woke up the next morning. The gentle movement of the boat had rocked us to sleep. We stayed in Bratislava for two nights, normally I’d welcome a two-night stay as it meant no repacking and changing hotels, but this week it happened every day! There was a newly scheduled out-and-back ride to charming Hainberg that mostly followed the Danube, with evidence of the water having receded by several meters. Many fields and crops had been devastated, but the paths and quiet roads were clear, revealing beautiful countryside and vistas. The weather was mostly warm and sunny -  there was some rain later in the week, which is normal for late September. We crossed from Slovakia back into Austria and then on to Hainberg, a pretty town where we stopped near the Haydn fountain for coffees and ice cream. On the way back, we stopped at a cute riverside bar for a beverage or two – this was a very relaxed tour with daily rides of under 50km.

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From Floods to Fun - our Danube Bike & Boat Tour was at the mercy of the river which dictated the route.

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Waltzing Along the Danube: A Cycling Adventure

This region is the heart of ‘Green Spain’ with the weather more temperature than further south. The weeks and months before our tour had apparently been very wet and the countryside was particularly lush with many shades of green. Fortunately for us the rain had passed and given way to spring sunshine!

Mornings were still a bit chilly at first but the days warmed up. Later in the week daytime temperatures reached the low 30s (°C) which was unseasonably hot for this part of the country. This brought its own challenges, but fortunately coincided with lower distance riding days and more rest and respite options - including bars and wineries!

Still being spring, wildflowers were blooming all over to add to the colour palette. There were swathes of bright yellow broom interspersed with purple orchids and white and blue flowers I couldn’t identify. A little lower down the valley, the broom was replaced by myriad crimson poppies growing in fields and along the roadside.

Our tour was labelled a ‘descent’ but, although it is true that our end point was at a lower altitude than the start, the tour was by no means flat or downhill all the way. There were some fabulous descents but also many climbs of different gradients. This variety certainty made the tour very interesting, sometimes challenging, but also allowed for amazing views and scenery. Unlike some rivers there wasn’t a riverside path  and the Ebro was often out of sight and sound range. Occasionally we were closer to tributaries such as the Nela, the Trifón and the Alavesa. The roads often crossed from side to side but the route selected by IberoCycle mostly avoided major roads and was little frequented by cars. A pleasant surprise was how well drivers respected cyclists and gave plenty of space and distance when following or passing. Unfortunately I can’t say the same about the motorbike riders that use these quiet roads as their personal racetracks.
 
The route was slightly altered from the standard tour due to availability of accommodation and food, however the tour notes were thorough enough to allow for this, as was the ride guide, so navigation was spot on. The tour used the excellent RidewithGPS app but we were also given a printed road book and route guide with cue notes.
 
Our group of 4 took up the option of adding a couple of extra nights in Rioja as we wanted to do some winery visits and tastings. Additional loop ride routes were added to the app for us – with a list of wineries to consider. So although this was a self-guided tour, there was little planning required on our part - other than to and from the ride pick up and drop off points - in our case Bilbao.
 
Accommodation was excellent throughout, especially surprising in some quite relatively remote locations. A good breakfast was provided by the hotels each day allowing us to get on the road as early or late as we liked. Lunches were on the road and where we were pre-warned there were no suitable options en route a packed lunch was arranged. Dinner was included on the first 5 nights - simply because there were no real alternatives until we reached the busier Rioja region. The included dinners (including wine) were all amazing, mostly local specialities, ranging from a very extensive menu to a fixed menu (you’d need to advise beforehand if you had special dietary requirements).
  
**Day 1 - Arrival**  
Ignacio picked us up from our accommodation in Bilbao - which had been hard enough to secure due to the Europa Cup final the day before!   
On the way to our first tour hotel we stopped at the Iberocycle Office near Santander to collect the hire bikes and then travelled across the mountains to tiny and remote Ormas, albeit in a spectacular setting. 
An optional easy 24km loop was offered to us in the app - and gladly accepted, despite a headwind one way and a few ups and downs. A nice introduction to the longer cycling days ahead. There was a nice diversion to a 15th century hilltop castle and also to the source of the River Ebro in Fontibre, where we found a lovely bar to enjoy beers in the afternoon sun and spend time with an Irish couple who were doing the same tour, and with whom we enjoyed much cycling and socialising over the following week or so. 
 
**Day 2 Ormas to Orbanejo del Castillo**  
There were a couple of options for the day. We chose the shorter one, to mostly the follow the river directly to our end point - the longer version circumnavigated the Ebro Reservoir. However, and including a diversion out to Las Rozas de Valdearroyo to see the partially sunken church, this was still our longest day in the saddle.   
There being no food options on the way we ate our picnic lunch at the Monastery of Montesclaros, followed by more cycling through some fabulous and unspoilt scenery of green mountain pastures and forests of the Cantabrian Mountains, to finally rejoin the Ebro in Valderredible. The sides of the valley begin to close in until we found ourselves in a marvellous canyon of ever-increasing dimensions, where eagles and vultures soar overhead. Then a final climb surrounded by towering limestone cliffs to the absolutely stunning fairytale village of Orbanejo del Castillo.  
 
**Day 3 Orbanejo del Castillo to  Valle de Zamanzas**  
Due to many photo stops, including the beautiful waterfall and cascades running through the village, we slowly cycled out of town. Being still at a fairly high altitude the views in the Valle de Sedano were magnificent. A coffee (beer) stop in picturesque Pesquera de Ebro, followed by a diversion out to tranquil riverside Tudanca, and a loop ride UP to our quite isolated hotel in the Valle de Zamanzas, meant we had most of the afternoon to relax before another delicious home cooked meal.   
 
**Day 4 Valle de Zamanzas to  Medina de Pomar**  
The day started with more spectacular views, this time over the Valle de Manzanedo, and through pristine but ghostlike San Miguel de Cornezuelo. We also opted to follow a route closer to the Ebro tributaries of Trífon and Nela, rather than the main river itself. This took us through Soncillo and the dramatic village of Puentedey (one of ‘Los Pueblos más bonitos de España’ – the prettiest villages in Spain), built on a natural rock bridge over the River Nela. We rode out through the town of Villarcayo and onto our hotel on the edge of the Castilian town of Medina de Pomar with its old Jewish quarter and the castle dominating the town and the surrounding landscape.  
 
**Day 5 Medina de Pomar to Frías**  
From Medina, we head back to the Ebro through the village of Bisjueces with its impressive church of San Juan Bautista.  The route then took us along a quiet country road running parallel to the river where the valley begins to open out again. We rode past the Romanesque church of San Pedro de Tejada, near our coffee stop at Puente Arenas, and soon through yet another canyon, which then opens out into the fertile valley at Trespaderne, with its stunning ‘Portuguese’ rock caves, and Frías, which we approached across the (optional) old cobblestone bridge. The latter is a spectacular hilltop village built around its castle and enjoying impressive views of the Ebro Valley.
 
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Capturing the essence of northern Spain while navigating quiet country roads and savouring local cuisine and wines.

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From the source to Rioja: Descent of the River Ebro

The Netherlands is (rightly) known as having the best cycling infrastructure in the world as well as having the flattest terrain. The country is also world famous for its cut flowers, especially tulips. So, anticipation for a world beating tour was high!  
*Fun fact: tulips are not native here – they are native to Türkiye – but have been bred and cultivated to the wide variety of types and colours that now exist.  *

This was an 8-day tour from [Yubike Tours](/tour/yubike-tours) with 5 days of cycling. It started and finished in Amsterdam and followed a loop mostly through the province of South Holland. We stayed aboard the barge *Anna van Aemstel* (formerly *Wending*) which meant than we only had to unpack once for the week - a luxury for a bike tour!

There were to be some itinerary changes due to certain bridges being closed. This meant more sailing time and changing the route and days around a bit - with no loss to cycling or tulip time! The guides and crew managed this so well we hardly noticed.

**Day 1 Embarkation in Amsterdam**  
After boarding at midday, it was a leisurely afternoon. In the evening Jeroen, the skipper, gave an informal briefing on safety and on the newly refurbished barge – which was only on its second outing since relaunch. Especially useful operations information came from the amazing Amerens, who was the housekeeper, restaurant manager, operations manager as well as assistant to the skipper, especially through locks and for relief driving. Our chef on board for the week was Theo whose fantastic meals were like they came straight out of a Michelin starred restaurant! At dinnertime he also gave us background to most dishes as well as the recipes.
 
Carlos and Michaela, our excellent and friendly guides, gave us a run down on the cycling and route changes as well as some general background. We were only 12 guests - there were vacant rooms - so introductions didn’t take long. We got to know each other pretty quickly - having common interests like travel and cycling always makes this process quick and easy. 

Later that afternoon we motored out of Amsterdam to the east and then south for almost 3 hours to Vianan to moor for the night. En route we enjoyed the first of Theo’s fantastic dinners, all while watching the countryside pass by and being fascinated by passing through several locks on the way.

**Day 2 Vianan to Gouda**  
We woke to wall-to-wall warm blue skies, despite a chilly start to the day. Carlos and Michaela distributed our pre-booked hire bikes, and we tested them. The mix of standard and e-bikes were suitably comfortable and popular - as were the bright orange panniers that distinguished them from the other tour groups with whom we crossed paths. We then rode through the lovely medieval village of Vianan and into picture postcard Dutch countryside. 

A short ferry ride across the river Lek led to morning tea stop in pretty Lopik, then 10km later by bike was lunch in Schoonhoven – with beers to supplement our picnic lunches from the boat’s breakfast buffet.
Today’s ride finished in stunning and historic Gouda which was far more than just the world-famous cheese. Over more beers in the main square some locals recommended a bakery that did the best stroopwafels in town. Of course we had to try them, and they were fantastic - much cheaper and nicer than in touristy Amsterdam.

It was then back to the boat, moored nearby after travelling from Vianan, for some afternoon tea or a glass of wine from the self-managed bar on-board. The barge stayed overnight in Gouda.

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Expectations were high for this bike & barge tour in a country famous for its world-beating cycling infrastructure and also its tulips.

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Adventure in Cambodia: Temples, Trails and Traditions

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