Wheels and Walls: A Bike Tour of Belfast’s Historic and Cultural Landmarks

By Bruce Robertson

Bruce Robertson

Meeting David, our guide from Belfast City Bike Tours, at an opulent community space in the heart of Belfast, set an intriguing tone for our adventure. This heritage-listed building, a former bank and Tesco supermarket, felt like a perfect metaphor for Belfast itself: historic yet vibrantly modern. We mounted our comfortable yellow ex-Chinese rental Ofo bikes. A light drizzle greeted us early on, but soon enough, the clouds parted, and the day brightened to a warm and mostly sunny adventure.

Belfast, or Béal Feirste, meaning the mouth of the Farset River, is steeped in nautical and riparian heritage, a theme that echoed throughout our tour. The city’s history of linen production and later, its engineering feats, especially shipbuilding, made it one of the most prosperous regions in the British Isles during the 19th and early 20th centuries. Despite this rich history, Belfast is perhaps best known for disaster and terrorism - its association with the Titanic and the turbulent times of "The Troubles." These narratives are now seamlessly woven into the fabric of modern Belfast, enriching its tourism experience with layers of historical depth.

Our first stop was City Hall, a popular photo opportunity and historic landmark in Donegall Square, the heart of the city. A free guided tour of the beautiful Baroque Revival building is recommended. The grounds contain the Titanic Memorial Garden, and The Cenotaph and Garden of Remembrance.

Next was St George’s Market, a lively place buzzing with energy. Although our initial visit was brief, it was enough to entice us back the next morning for a Northern Irish breakfast, accompanied by a traditional music session that added a delightful local flavor to our experience.

We cycled past the leaning Albert Clock, built on timber foundations that have caused it to tilt over the years. Nearby, we encountered the Big Fish, a striking ceramic tile-cladded statue and time capsule erected in 1999 to celebrate the regeneration of the River Lagan and the historic importance of the site, adding a touch of modern art to our historical journey. Street art was another vibrant element of the tour, with numerous murals and installations revitalizing the city's aesthetic and discouraging graffiti whilst enlivening previously rundown areas.. Unlike Derry, Belfast's street art is predominantly non-political.

Our ride led us to the Titanic Quarter, home to the Titanic Museum, deservedly the top tourist attraction in Belfast. We admired the outline of the ship’s top deck on the ground, a solemn reminder of the famously inadequate lifeboats. Visiting the museum is a must-do - time-based ticketing ensure that it doesn't really get too crowded. Nearby is the Titanic Studios, where many parts of "Game of Thrones" was filmed, now commemorated by a wonderful series of stained glass installations around the quarter. Odyssey Place, resonating with the sounds of the dockyards, further enriched the experience.

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Bruce Robertson & Rob McMaster

We next pedalled into the Cathedral Quarter, characterised by narrow streets teeming with bars, restaurants, and small shops. The area exudes a lively atmosphere reminiscent of Dublin's Temple Bar but with a more local feel. The area is names after St Ann’s Cathedral which boasts the largest Celtic Cross in the world. Though only 120 years old, its original steeple had to be removed as it was causing the cathedral to sink, and was now replaced by a contemporary needle-like structure. Sadly, some Belfast heritage has been lost to the terrorism of the 70s and 80s, with past street name signage mounted on a wall, a poignant reminder of the past.

Our journey continued through the Shankill and Falls Roads, and along the “Peace Wall.” Here, memories and evidence of "The Troubles," which began in 1969 and officially ended with the Good Friday Agreement in 1998, are still evident. The city's transformation since then is remarkable, yet tensions persist, and the wall continues to divide nationalist and unionist communities.

David's deep knowledge and pride in his city shone through as he shared these and other captivating stories at each stop. His enthusiasm was infectious, making our tour both educational and entertaining. Booking and paying for the tour online was convenient, and the option to tip in advance was handy, especially for those who don't carry cash or the appropriate currency!

Our tour concluded back in the city center at Kelly’s Cellars, the oldest and busiest bar dating from 1720. Armed with newfound knowledge about Belfast and a list of places to revisit, we ended our day over a few pints, planning our next adventures in this captivating city.