Waltzing Along the Danube: A Cycling Adventure

By Bruce Robertson

Bruce Robertson

Having spent an awesome St. Rupert’s Day (weekend) in Salzburg we got the train to Passau. Due to the Central European Floods, part of the train line was closed, leading to a longer journey on a different train. This was the first of several itinerary changes we encountered during the week, but they were mere inconveniences compared to the challenges faced by the residents in the affected areas. Rad + Reisen, our tour operator, had informed us via email that the boat couldn’t dock at the planned point, and we would be bused to a new dock.

Upon arrival at the rendezvous, we were surprised to learn that we were heading to Vienna, a three-hour drive away, as the boat couldn't get any further upriver at that stage. Three buses had been chartered for the 140 guests, and Leslie and Barbara kept us updated with the latest information. Despite the changes, we arrived at the boat with enough time to settle in and freshen up before enjoying an excellent buffet-style welcome dinner in the on-board restaurant. Throughout the week, the restaurant became our main hangout – with the bar only narrowly behind! Tables were pre-allocated for the week – our group of seven had our own table. Dinner was usually a set menu, pre-ordered before the day’s cycling, while breakfast was a satisfying buffet with plenty of choice. We were encouraged to take something for lunch, but there were many opportunities to explore local bars and cafés along the way. For those not riding on a particular day, lunch was provided on the boat.

After dinner, we headed to the bar for our first daily briefing from Leslie, the tour director. He showed us some recent photos of flood-affected areas, making it clear that we wouldn’t be sailing to Budapest as scheduled. The river was too high to pass under bridges, and several locks were blocked by debris. Our itinerary would be changed, with several excursions rescheduled and a new bus tour added for those disappointed about missing Budapest.

Credit goes to Leslie, the boat staff, and the Rad + Reisen office for reorganizing and rescheduling to ensure we had a fantastic holiday. The changes involved rebooking local guides and experiences, staffing adjustments, reprovisioning, docking, and other logistics. Well done, everyone – you are all legends!

On the first night, we sailed to Bratislava, where we woke up the next morning. The gentle movement of the boat had rocked us to sleep. We stayed in Bratislava for two nights, normally I’d welcome a two-night stay as it meant no repacking and changing hotels, but this week it happened every day! There was a newly scheduled out-and-back ride to charming Hainberg that mostly followed the Danube, with evidence of the water having receded by several meters. Many fields and crops had been devastated, but the paths and quiet roads were clear, revealing beautiful countryside and vistas. The weather was mostly warm and sunny - there was some rain later in the week, which is normal for late September. We crossed from Slovakia back into Austria and then on to Hainberg, a pretty town where we stopped near the Haydn fountain for coffees and ice cream. On the way back, we stopped at a cute riverside bar for a beverage or two – this was a very relaxed tour with daily rides of under 50km.

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Bruce Robertson

The riding throughout the tour was self-guided for most people, though groups on board from Iceland and Quebec had their own guides. Using the Rad + Reisen app was simple, and even the itineraries for the new alternative routes had been uploaded. Our group of seven rode together but regularly crossed paths and spent time with other riders from the boat. English was the most spoken language on board, but there were many nationalities, and all announcements and briefings were also in German (and sometimes French).

That first evening, we opted for a tourist train and walking tour in Bratislava with a local guide. Not knowing much about the city or country beforehand, the tour was hugely informative and gave us many reasons to return and explore the city properly. Highlights included the restored Bratislava Castle and Baroque gardens, St. Martin’s Cathedral, the Old Town, and the National Theatre.

The next day, due to the boat not being able to reach Budapest, Rad + Reisen organized a free bus excursion of the city. This was great for those who didn’t want to miss out, but we opted not to go as we were planning to visit Budapest after the tour for a birthday dinner at Café New York and another bike tour. Instead, we did a lovely short loop of the southern Bratislava suburbs and returned to the boat for lunch. The afternoon was spent relaxing on the boat and wandering through the Old Town.

That night, we moved back to Vienna for a rest day. There were excursions on offer – a city tour by bus or by bike. Naturally, we opted for the latter and had a guided tour of about 20km over three hours, with frequent stops, around the Old Town. The tour included the Hofburg Palace, the People’s Garden, the Town Hall, the State Opera House, and beautiful Baroque churches like St. Charles and the Minoritenkirche with its mosaic replica of The Last Supper. Most guests chose the bus tour or spent time around town, as we were docked just a couple of kilometres from the centre. Our group of seven took our bikes out again in the afternoon and rode along Danube Island, a narrow stretch of traffic-free land in the middle of the river, about 10km long. Conveniently, it was right beside where we docked and had a bar and café for refreshments.

That evening, we attended a delightful Mozart concert at the stunning Schönbrunn Palace, the Baroque summer residence of the Habsburgs. Overnight, the boat moved further upriver, docking at the town of Krems. Despite the grey day, the beautiful riverside scenery made up for it. We rode through the historic Wachau Valley, lined with vineyards and monasteries, encountering lovely towns like Dürnstein, Weißenkirchen, and Spitz, where we enjoyed a wine tasting. We played tag with the boat along the river and met up with it again in Melk, beneath the magnificent Abbey. The day gradually improved, and we finished in sunshine. By a great coincidence, we were sailing to the next port, Grein, while the sun was out, so almost everyone decamped to the spacious sundeck. The cocktails of the day were a treat for those of us on the drinks package, a great warm-up to the 70’s disco night in the bar that evening!

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Bruce Robertson

The penultimate riding day started grey and drizzly, but the 40km ride to Mauthausen was enjoyable, closely following the river. We started in Grein and rode up to the Castle, though we were too early to visit Austria’s oldest municipal theatre. A pleasant ride with a few damp spots brought us to Mauthausen, best known for being the home of the largest Nazi concentration camp in Austria. We crossed paths with the boat a few times and had lunch and beer at a nice bar near the dock while it was mooring.

That evening, we sailed further upriver to Brandstatt. Watching the boat pass through several locks was fascinating, with the lock walls seeming just inches from the windows. We passed through the city of Linz while having dinner in the restaurant and then libations in the bar. The following morning, we headed out for the last day on the bikes, another beautiful riverside ride. The Donauterrasse in Kobling was a great place to stop for coffee and cake, and well set up for an influx of cyclists. We were on the south bank of the river but had to change to the north further on, using a cute little wooden ferry for a couple of euros. For a couple more, you could buy a little bottle of schnapps to enjoy on the short river crossing. How civilized! Our chosen lunch stop was the Pumberger cider farm, with a great selection of sandwiches and pastries, as well as their very earthy cider.

We experienced some rain on the final leg to Engelhartszell, but it stopped by the end. Another ferry (and schnapps!) took us to the other bank where the MS Vivienne was docked. After returning the bikes, we had time for a short walk to the stunning baroque Stiftskirche and Trappist monastery. Back on board, we were treated to the Captain’s farewell cocktail and gala dinner, followed by Karaoke in the bar - there were some great singers among the passengers and crew! As the river level was still high, we overnighted in Engelhartszell and were bused the short distance to Passau the next morning.

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Many river cruises offer bikes for guests to use during the day, but this tour was unique as everyone was cycling, creating a special atmosphere and camaraderie on board. And the cycling and locations were fantastic. I have no hesitation in recommending this Danube Waltz.