A Week in Provence
Bruce Robertson
The Luberon Valley and Natural Park probably offers the best leisure cycling in Provence. And Provence Cycling Holidays' (PCH) "Memoires de Provence" B&B in Coustellet is the ideal base to explore it from - although they also have a self-catering villa close by that may better suit groups or families.
Most guests arrive by car or even train to nearby Cavaillon. In our week, of the 4 B&B guest rooms, 2 couples came by car, 1 by train and 1 by bike (us!). It's an easy 36km half day cycle from Avignon to Coustellet, mostly flat.
The tour was self-guided, but was far more than just accommodation with bike hire. Neil and Nat had suggested routes for each of the 5 cycling days that you could choose from their portfolio. They recommended particular routes for certain days to include local markets, festivities or other events. And if that wasn't enough each route had easy, medium and hard options with all having been thoroughly researched and recorded on cue cards and easy-to-follow GPS navigation. Each morning at breakfast Neil, and Nat at the villa, tirelessly went through the route options, maps and cue cards. Rob and I choose mostly medium routes which were quite challenging in the heat. The hybrid hire bikes we used were excellent and some guests sensibly opted for the e-bike upgrade which allowed them to do more, more easily. Neil was also available with his van during the day in case he was needed - as happened once during our week (one rider got separated and triggered a search - he found his own way back to base though!).
The time of year to visit is an important consideration for a stay. Tours are available from April to October with July and August being the hottest months - we were there in July so can vouch for that! Lavender season is mid-June to early or mid-July, although the (slightly) cooler months have a lot to recommend them too. If I did the tour again it'd probably be in May/June or September.
Coustellet, our base, is at the western end of the 37km Véloroute du Calavon, a flat greenway (voie verte), most of which we thoroughly covered during the week on our various rides. And although you can stay on mostly flat routes, the villages and other sites most worth a visit often involve hills - some quite steep. However Neil has found the best ways to access them to minimise climbs (unless of course climbs are what you're looking for, in which case you're well catered for too).
The Véloroute du Calavon is part of the much longer 1500km [EuroVelo 8](https://en.eurovelo.com/ev8) Mediterranean Cycle Route that links Spain to Greece by bike. It Intersects with the Via Rhôna at Avignon which was how we arrived. This local section was recently upgraded and is very well maintained.
Peter Mayle's A Year in Provence was set in the Luberon and deservedly placed this stunning region in the spotlight. His experience was based on his time living in Ménerbes, one of 'Les Plus Beaux Villages de France' (the prettiest villages in France). There are currently 171 villages with this designation across France - 3 of which are in this part of the Luberon. The others are stunning Gordes and well-known Roussillon, both of which are on PCH cycle routes.
However I wouldn't like to be choosing the villages as there are so many others that could be included like Lacoste (former home of the Marquis de Sade), hilltop Saignon and also Fontaine de Vaucluse - the fountain or spring of Vaucluse, one of the largest springs in the world. Larger towns that could also fit the bill are L'Isle-sur-le-Sorgue, Bonnieux and Apt.
A major reason I enjoy cycling in France is the wine. Riding through or close to vineyards and visiting wineries or 'caves' adds so much to an already great experience. And while not one of the best known wine regions, AOC Cotes du Luberon produces a great drop. I particularly recommend visiting Domaine de la Citadelle and the Cave du Luberon in Coustellet itself. The latter is also near the Lavender Museum and some great restaurants, so plenty to do off the bike too!
Another thing to love about this trip was it was centre based, so no packing up each day and moving on. You could ride from the B&B every day, which says a lot about the quality of cycle routes in the area.
♢♢♢
If you're looking for a cycle tour in France that has a bit of everything, you can't go far wrong with Provence and the Luberon.
The author was a guest of Provence Cycling Holidays but the views and impressions are all his own.
Provence Cycling Holiday - the B&B
10.0/10 1 review(s)
Tour Operator: Provence Cycling Holidays
France
7 days (Bike: 5 days)
225 km (~45km per day)
Leisure
Some hills, Quiet roads
Self-Guided
Semi-Supported
Prices from
Self-Guided
€ 1545
Overview
Tour Operator Provence Cycling Holidays
Hosted, self-guided bike tours from our family-run, 17th Century stone Farmhouse B&B in the Luberon, Provence
Our cycling holidays are small scale, with no more than 8 bikers, so we are able to give you an individual personalised service, thus making sure you get the best experience possible cycling in Provence, France.
We live here all year round, so we have lots of local knowledge. And we use this to guide you along quiet, beautiful backroads, that will take you through picturesque landscapes, some beautiful lavender fields and on to the best sights; whether it be to an unknown pretty stone village, a favourite local restaurant, an authentic farmers' market or renowned vineyard.
Our Provence bike trips from our our 17th Century farmhouse in Coustellet are self-guided and flexible. And we are always happy to help you choose the right ride, distance and level of difficulty to suit you on a daily basis. And you ride at your pace, after all these are your cycling holidays!
And you'll use our quality, new Trek hybrid bikes & the latest, easy to use, stress-free Garmin GPS systems, preprogrammed with all of our most popular rides, for all levels.
We have been running our single base Provence bike trips for the last 13 years, and have had a 5* rating on Tripadvisor for all of that time, along with a 100% recommendation rate.
I loved this tour - Neil and Nat are so flexible and accommodating and the location is magical. Read my account at 'My Week in Provence'.
Bruce (CTG Editor)
Provence Cycling Holiday - the Villa
Tour Operator: Provence Cycling Holidays
France
7 days (Bike: 5 days)
225 km (~45km per day)
Self-catering
Leisure
Some hills, Quiet roads
Self-Guided
Semi-Supported
Prices from
Self-Guided
€ 1155
Overview
Tour Operator Provence Cycling Holidays
The Luberon and Provence provide a great environment for cycling holidays
It's also the perfect place for outdoor living with superb countryside and stunning & intriguing hill villages.
In the relatively small area of the Luberon Park alone, we have four of France's classified "Most Beautiful Villages"; Roussillon, Gordes, Menerbes & Lourmarin. Plus a handful of other villages that should be classified too.
The area has a varied terrain: from the flat orchard filled river plane, rolling vine covered hills to quiet, long, spectacular climbs. Throw in the beautiful Provencal architecture and the quiet country back roads and it should make for some of the best cycling you have'll ever experienced.
On the cultural front, there is a wide and deep range of activities with many interesting villages & towns (L'Isle sur la Sorgue, historic Avignon, Arles and Aix-en-Provence), museums, chateaux, vineyards, churches, various festivals, historic sites etc...
We'll provide you with our own "Real Provence" guide to the area; with all the popular places to visit (as well as the lesser known but equally good sights), our favourite restaurants and cafés, vineyards, etc. Whatever your interests, just let us know and we will be happy to show you the ride that will take you where you want to go. Of course if you've had enough cycling the car is always an option, as there is lots to see just a little further afield.
I did this tour last year from their B&B and loved it - Neil and Nat are so flexible and accommodating and the location is magical.
Read my account, 'A Week in Provence'. Bruce (CTG Editor)