A Week in Provence
Bruce Robertson
The Luberon Valley and Natural Park probably offers the best leisure cycling in Provence. And Provence Cycling Holidays' (PCH) "Memoires de Provence" B&B in Coustellet is the ideal base to explore it from - although they also have a self-catering villa close by that may better suit groups or families.
Most guests arrive by car or even train to nearby Cavaillon. In our week, of the 4 B&B guest rooms, 2 couples came by car, 1 by train and 1 by bike (us!). It's an easy 36km half day cycle from Avignon to Coustellet, mostly flat.
The tour was self-guided, but was far more than just accommodation with bike hire. Neil and Nat had suggested routes for each of the 5 cycling days that you could choose from their portfolio. They recommended particular routes for certain days to include local markets, festivities or other events. And if that wasn't enough each route had easy, medium and hard options with all having been thoroughly researched and recorded on cue cards and easy-to-follow GPS navigation. Each morning at breakfast Neil, and Nat at the villa, tirelessly went through the route options, maps and cue cards. Rob and I choose mostly medium routes which were quite challenging in the heat. The hybrid hire bikes we used were excellent and some guests sensibly opted for the e-bike upgrade which allowed them to do more, more easily. Neil was also available with his van during the day in case he was needed - as happened once during our week (one rider got separated and triggered a search - he found his own way back to base though!).
The time of year to visit is an important consideration for a stay. Tours are available from April to October with July and August being the hottest months - we were there in July so can vouch for that! Lavender season is mid-June to early or mid-July, although the (slightly) cooler months have a lot to recommend them too. If I did the tour again it'd probably be in May/June or September.
Coustellet, our base, is at the western end of the 37km Véloroute du Calavon, a flat greenway (voie verte), most of which we thoroughly covered during the week on our various rides. And although you can stay on mostly flat routes, the villages and other sites most worth a visit often involve hills - some quite steep. However Neil has found the best ways to access them to minimise climbs (unless of course climbs are what you're looking for, in which case you're well catered for too).
The Véloroute du Calavon is part of the much longer 1500km [EuroVelo 8](https://en.eurovelo.com/ev8) Mediterranean Cycle Route that links Spain to Greece by bike. It Intersects with the Via Rhôna at Avignon which was how we arrived. This local section was recently upgraded and is very well maintained.
Peter Mayle's A Year in Provence was set in the Luberon and deservedly placed this stunning region in the spotlight. His experience was based on his time living in Ménerbes, one of 'Les Plus Beaux Villages de France' (the prettiest villages in France). There are currently 171 villages with this designation across France - 3 of which are in this part of the Luberon. The others are stunning Gordes and well-known Roussillon, both of which are on PCH cycle routes.
However I wouldn't like to be choosing the villages as there are so many others that could be included like Lacoste (former home of the Marquis de Sade), hilltop Saignon and also Fontaine de Vaucluse - the fountain or spring of Vaucluse, one of the largest springs in the world. Larger towns that could also fit the bill are L'Isle-sur-le-Sorgue, Bonnieux and Apt.
A major reason I enjoy cycling in France is the wine. Riding through or close to vineyards and visiting wineries or 'caves' adds so much to an already great experience. And while not one of the best known wine regions, AOC Cotes du Luberon produces a great drop. I particularly recommend visiting Domaine de la Citadelle and the Cave du Luberon in Coustellet itself. The latter is also near the Lavender Museum and some great restaurants, so plenty to do off the bike too!
Another thing to love about this trip was it was centre based, so no packing up each day and moving on. You could ride from the B&B every day, which says a lot about the quality of cycle routes in the area.
♢♢♢
If you're looking for a cycle tour in France that has a bit of everything, you can't go far wrong with Provence and the Luberon.
The author was a guest of Provence Cycling Holidays but the views and impressions are all his own.
Provence Cycling Holiday - the B&B
10.0/10 1 review(s)
Tour Operator: Provence Cycling Holidays
France
7 days (Bike: 5 days)
225 km (~45km per day)
Leisure
Quiet roads, Some hills
Self-Guided
Semi-Supported
Prices from
Self-Guided
€ 1549
Overview
Tour Operator Provence Cycling Holidays
Hosted, self-guided Provence bike tours from a family-run, 17th century stone farmhouse B&B in the Luberon.
Provence Cycling Holidays run hosted, self-guided bike tours from a single base: their family-run, 17th century farmhouse B&B, built from white Gordes stone near Coustellet in the heart of the Luberon. Hosts Neil and Natalene Cowell have lived and ridden here year-round for almost 20 years, and they keep numbers small, with no more than eight cyclists, so the service stays personal. Guests stay six nights with five full days of riding, returning each evening to the same room, pool and garden, so there's no daily packing.
Each morning riders choose from a directory of more than 30 tried and tested routes, pre-programmed into a Garmin GPS, with the hosts helping match distance, climbing and sights to each rider's mood and ability. Routes follow quiet backroads through hilltop stone villages, lavender fields, orchards and vineyards, with stops at favourite cafés, farmers' markets and wine châteaux. Two sections of the local cycle network feature, including a 30 km converted rail trail, and new rides can be designed on the spot.
The Luberon suits all levels: gentle days of 30-40 km across the river plain are easily managed, while the northern hills offer tougher road riding for keen cyclists. Quality Trek hybrids are supplied, with e-bikes, road bikes and tandems available at extra cost. Breakfast is included daily, along with two relaxed three-course dinners cooked by the host, with wine, beer and soft drinks.
Highlights:
- Hilltop stone villages such as Gordes, Roussillon and Bonnieux
- Lavender fields in bloom (June to July) and the Abbaye de Sénanque near Gordes
- Vineyards, wine châteaux and authentic farmers' markets
- The 30 km converted rail trail via the Roman Pont Julien
- Host-cooked Provençal dinners and a pool at a 17th century farmhouse
- Daily choice of 30+ GPS routes tailored to your ability
Surface and terrain:
Mostly quiet, sealed country backroads with little traffic, plus two 30 km sections of local cycle route, including a converted rail trail. Terrain varies from the flat river plain and Rhône delta to rolling foothills, with tough climbs in the northern hills for those seeking them.
Weather:
Warm and sunny Mediterranean conditions. Average maximums: April 21°C, May 23°C, June 27°C, July 30°C, August 33°C, September 24-27°C. October 24°C. July and August are hot, with long evenings.
Suitable for:
All abilities, from "cycling for softies" to keen road cyclists, with daily rides ranging from 20 km on the flat to challenging hill days. It suits couples and small groups who want a relaxed single-base holiday focused on villages, food and wine. E-bikes are available for less confident riders.
I loved this tour - Neil and Nat are so flexible and accommodating and the location is magical. Read my account at 'My Week in Provence'.
Bruce (CTG Editor)
Provence Cycling Holiday - the Villa
Tour Operator: Provence Cycling Holidays
France
7 days (Bike: 5 days)
225 km (~45km per day)
Self-catering
Leisure
Quiet roads, Some hills
Self-Guided
Semi-Supported
Prices from
Self-Guided
€ 1050
Overview
Tour Operator Provence Cycling Holidays
Hosted, self-guided Provence bike tours from a private, self-catering villa in Taillades, in the Luberon.
Following the success of their B&B-based tours, Provence Cycling Holidays have run a second single-base option since 2016 from a newly built, Provençal-style villa in Taillades, inside the Luberon Regional Park and just 7 km by bike track from their Coustellet B&B. The key difference is privacy: the whole villa is yours alone, for groups of two to six, on a self-catering basis. It has three bedrooms, a large open-plan kitchen, a terrace with pergola, landscaped gardens and a large covered pool. A bakery and restaurant are a short stroll away.
The riding set-up mirrors the B&B tours. Guests use quality Trek hybrids and Garmin GPS units pre-loaded with around 30 tried and tested backroad routes, supported by a Ride Directory and detailed notes on sights, cafés and restaurants. Routes follow quiet country lanes through hilltop stone villages, lavender fields, orchards and vineyards, with options for every level, from gentle flat rides to hard days in the hills.
Hosts Neil and Natalene Cowell visit each morning to clean the pool and are on hand to help choose rides, book restaurants and answer questions, so guests can use them as much or as little as they like. The villa suits families and groups of friends who want independence and space. Carbon road bikes, tandems and e-bikes are available at extra cost.
Highlights:
- Hilltop stone villages such as Gordes, Roussillon and Bonnieux
- Lavender fields (June to July) and the Abbaye de Sénanque
- Orchards, vineyards and local markets on quiet backroads
- Around 30 pre-programmed GPS routes for all abilities
- Restaurant bookings and ride advice from the local hosts
Surface and terrain:
Mostly quiet, sealed country backroads, plus sections of the local cycle network, including the bike track linking Taillades and Coustellet. Terrain ranges from flat valley lanes to rolling foothills, with tough climbs in the northern hills for stronger riders.
Weather:
Warm and sunny Mediterranean conditions. Average maximums: April 21°C, May 23°C, June 27°C, July 30°C, August 33°C, September 24-27°C, October 24°C. Summer can bring heatwaves.
Suitable for:
Families, friends and couples (2-6 guests) who want privacy and flexibility, and are comfortable self-catering. It suits all abilities, from leisurely riders to keen road cyclists. E-bikes help mixed-ability groups ride together.
I did this tour last year from their B&B and loved it - Neil and Nat are so flexible and accommodating and the location is magical.
Read my account, 'A Week in Provence'. Bruce (CTG Editor)