Discovering Budapest on a bike: Culture, History and Adventure

By Bruce Robertson

Robert McMaster

The day started at Deák Ferenc Square, where the group met up and we walked to the Budapest Bike Breeze office. After getting our bikes, our knowledgeable guide Anna gave us a tour and safety briefing. The bikes were fantastic—very comfortable and perfect for city riding. We rode out into the city and were immediately greeted by the sight of the ubiquitous Ferris wheel.

Our journey took us through District VI along the bike lanes of the magnificent Andrássy Avenue. First stop was the exquisite Hungarian State Opera House. It's slightly smaller than Vienna's opera house, as mandated by the then Austro-Hungarian Emperor, but in the spirit of one-upmanship it's more opulent! Built in the 1880s and renovated in the 1980s, it is a stunning building. Across the road, is another beautiful neo-classical building that is now the W Budapest hotel.

As we continued along the avenue, we admired the magnificent buildings, some of which were still being restored. We then arrived at Heroes' Square, surrounded by museums, where we saw statues of the Seven Chieftains of the Magyars and the under-renovation scaffolding-encased Millennium Memorial. Behind the square in City Park, there was a winter skating rink and the Szechenyi (outdoor) Baths, which were crowded on this stunning October day.

We learned about the Millenium Exhibition buildings - 1896 being the 1000 year anniversary of the city and a recurring them across the city. These were originally made of cardboard and timber but later rebuilt in brick and stone. We had to dismount and join the tourists to see Vajdahunyad Castle, Jaki Chapel, and the statue of 'Anonymus' the writer. Still in the Park the modern House of Music and the fantastic sculpture 'Memorial to the 1956 Revolution' were also highlights.

Riding back along Andrassy Avenue, we continued to admire the architecture and history along the way. We passed the House of Terror Museum, which documents the effects of fascist and communist regimes in Hungary, with its overhanging metal "Terror" roof and many memorial plaques around the building.

Heading towards the river, we arrived at the magnificent St Stephen's Basilica, named after the first king of Hungary and one of the two tallest buildings in Budapest - both at 96m. Next was the dramatic but controversial Memorial for Victims of the German Occupation in Liberty Square - controversial as it may seem to paint Hungarians more as innocent victims than being complicit in the Jewish Holocaust.

Also in the square was another rather controversial site—the Soviet War memorial—somewhat tempered by the nearby statues of US presidents Ronald Reagan and George W. Bush. A short ride from there brought us to the magnificent Hungarian Parliament Building, the same height as the Basilica and the largest building in Hungary. Located on the flatter Pest side of the Danube River, across from hilly Buda, its neo-Gothic architectural style was influenced by the Vienna City Hall and the Palace of Westminster in London.

We then rode onto the riverside bike path and crossed the Margaret Bridge to Buda. Although this side was hilly, we stayed close to the river and headed to a great local lunch spot, where we enjoyed a traditional and delicious goulash. After lunch, we got back on our bikes and rode along the western riverside bike path, with spectacular views of the parliament across the Danube, heading south to the Chain Bridge, the oldest and first permanent bridge in the city. Just before crossing the bridge, we saw a funicular leading to Buda Castle—definitely one for next time as we didn't have time to visit this trip.

Our final stop was Vörösmarty Square, known for its Christmas Market later in the year. We then rode through the beautiful Palace District, including the neo-classical Hungarian National Museum, and finally returned to our starting point.

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The tour covered just under 20km—a nice spin around and introduction to the city. As a side note, after the tour, we visited the Central Market Hall and later one of Budapest's famous ruin bars—both highly recommended, just like this awesome bike tour!