Vélo Francette: A Journey from Caen to Angers

Bruce Robertson
Embarking on a cycling adventure from Caen to Angers, Rob and I were prepared for a mix of challenging terrains, picturesque landscapes, and, of course, the culinary delights that France is famous for. Our journey kicked off in Caen, leading us through quaint villages and charming greenways, offering a unique blend of exertion and relaxation.
The first leg took us from Caen to Ménil-Hermei, a small village miles away from the hustle and bustle of city life. While that destination is not a top recommendation, our AirBnB provided a comfortable retreat, allowing us to collapse after a day of cycling. The morning ride treated us to a fantastic greenway enveloped in shade, setting the perfect tone for the day. By lunchtime in Clécy, we found ourselves on quiet roads, though the challenge increased in the afternoon with the heat and the hilly terrain.
A highlight of the trip was the French menu du jour, a three-course lunch accompanied by quintessential Normandy cider. The scenic beauty continued to unfold as we pedalled away from Caen, with the landscape evolving into vast agricultural fields. Harvesting time added a touch of rural charm, complete with the hum of tractors and machinery in the background.
Moving on from Ménil-Hermei to Domfront, the terrain presented a hilly first half, followed by a beautiful shady greenway leading into town. An early start proved wise, allowing us to explore Domfront in the cool of the morning. Swiss-Normandy welcomed us with its horsey landscapes, and Domfront itself, a well-maintained medieval town, revealed its beauty in every corner.
The journey from Domfront to Mayenne brought us onto a greenway for most of the day, providing respite from the heat. An early start paid off, ensuring a pleasant ride and a timely finish by lunch. The only challenge arose in finding a coffee stop that didn't involve a climb up a steep hill, but the satisfying ride compensated for the lack of a refreshment break.
Navigating from Mayenne to Château-Gontier, we were treated to the scenic Mayenne towpath almost the entire way. The morning shaded our route, while the afternoon sun tested our resilience. A Saturday ride brought out more cyclists and even more fishermen, turning the towpath into a lively scene of weekend recreation.
Château-Gontier to Angers marked the final stretch of our journey. The towpath continued, ensuring a flat ride with the Mayenne River providing a picturesque backdrop. The beauty of the journey was accentuated by the multiple locks along the way. As it was Sunday, cyclists and families dotted the path, and we coasted towards Angers, our adventure culminating in a riverside burger about 15km outside the city.
Our cycling odyssey through the French countryside was a perfect blend of physical challenge, cultural exploration, and gastronomic indulgence. Each leg of the journey brought its own unique charm, making it a trip to remember – a testament to the diverse and enchanting beauty that France has to offer to those exploring it on two wheels.