Through the Tulips - by Bike

By Bruce Robertson

Bruce Robertson

The Netherlands is (rightly) known as having the best cycling infrastructure in the world as well as having the flattest terrain. The country is also world famous for its cut flowers, especially tulips. So, anticipation for a world beating tour was high!
*Fun fact: tulips are not native here – they are native to Türkiye – but have been bred and cultivated to the wide variety of types and colours that now exist. *

This was an 8-day tour from Yubike Tours with 5 days of cycling. It started and finished in Amsterdam and followed a loop mostly through the province of South Holland. We stayed aboard the barge Anna van Aemstel (formerly Wending) which meant than we only had to unpack once for the week - a luxury for a bike tour!

After a leisurely afternoon, on the first evening Jeroen, the skipper, gave an informal briefing on safety and on the newly refurbished barge – which was only on its second outing since relaunch. Especially useful operations information came from the amazing Amerens, who was the housekeeper, restaurant manager, operations manager as well as assistant to the skipper, especially through locks and for relief driving. Our chef on board for the week was Theo whose fantastic meals were like they came straight out of a Michelin starred restaurant! At dinnertime he also gave us background to most dishes as well as the recipes.

Carlos and Michaela, our excellent and friendly guides, gave us a run down on the cycling and route changes as well as some general background. We were only 12 guests - there were vacant rooms - so introductions didn’t take long. We got to know each other pretty quickly - having common interests like travel and cycling always makes this process quick and easy.

There were to be some itinerary changes due to certain bridges being closed. This meant more sailing time and changing the route and days around a bit - with no loss to cycling or tulip time! The guides and crew managed this so well we hardly noticed.

Later that afternoon we motored out of Amsterdam to the east and then south for almost 3 hours to Vianan to moor for the night. En route we enjoyed the first of Theo’s fantastic dinners, all while watching the countryside pass by and being fascinated by passing through several locks on the way.

Day 2 Vianan to Gouda
We woke to wall-to-wall warm blue skies, despite a chilly start to the day. Carlos and Michaela distributed our pre-booked hire bikes, and we tested them. The mix of standard and e-bikes were suitably comfortable and popular - as were the bright orange panniers that distinguished them from the other tour groups with whom we crossed paths. We then rode through the lovely medieval village of Vianan and into picture postcard Dutch countryside.

A short ferry ride across the river Lek led to morning tea stop in pretty Lopik, then 10km later by bike was lunch in Schoonhoven – with beers to supplement our picnic lunches from the boat’s breakfast buffet. Today’s ride finished in stunning and historic Gouda which was far more than just the world-famous cheese. Over more beers in the main square some locals recommended a bakery that did the best stroopwafels in town. Of course we had to try them, and they were fantastic - much cheaper and nicer than in touristy Amsterdam.

It was then back to the boat, moored nearby after travelling from Vianan, for some afternoon tea or a glass of wine from the self-managed bar on-board. The barge stayed overnight in Gouda.

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Bruce Robertson

Day 3 Gouda to Delft via Rotterdam
We started riding southwest between canals and polders - the ever-continuing work to drain the land. It was very scenic despite not a hill in sight. More wildlife spotting – geese, ducks, swans and others including, understandably, twitchers! Even some hares and a pheasant.

The drainage peaked in a large project, world heritage listed Kinderdijk, with its 19 windmills and more modern pumping station - plus many visitors, both domestic and overseas. Then a 40-minute ferry ride into the centre of Rotterdam gave us a brief taster of the city of design and architecture.

Rotterdam is very modern compared to many Dutch cities as it was almost completely rebuilt after WWII, covering over the pre-existing canals and waterways and transforming it into a modern metropolis. All that was left was the Cathedral, the White House (once the tallest building in Europe) and picturesque Delfshaven.

This was followed by a ride out of the city along more bike paths (of course) to Delft on the warmest day of the tour with a top of 22°C and more blue skies. In contrast to its bigger neighbour, Delft was a beautiful and much more traditional Dutch city.

Day 4 Delft to The Hague return
The patchy rain had stopped before we got on the bikes and the overcast morning gave way to another lovely afternoon. The ride was only about 10km each way so an easy day along bike paths following canals. In The Hague Carlos and Michaela led a short walking tour past the Houses of Parliament and the old town. We had 3 hours in the city and spent more than half of that in the beautiful Escher Museum (others in the group went to the better-known Vermeer Museum). The Escher Museum was in a former royal palace, the home of Queen Emma the Queen Mother (1901-1934).

Although the ride was short it was plenty given that we had an enjoyable time in The Hague and earlier in Delft. A nice low-key way to enjoy my birthday.

Day 5 Gouda to Leiden
Due to bridge closures, we sailed back towards Gouda, where the barge dropped off cyclists while it continued to Leiden to meet us later. It was a very pleasant 45km ride into Leiden, starting just outside Gouda by crossing a lake, along the dikes, with plenty of birdlife on show, including another pheasant and more nesting swans. At the top of the lake Michaela had discovered a great café restaurant just 500m off our path for morning coffee.
We skirted the village of Bodehaven and rode on to our lunch stop in Alpen aan den Rjin. Luckily, we had our packed lunch from the boat (as we had every day) as most places seemed to be closed, this being Monday. We sat down on the banks of the Oude Rjin (Old Rhine) in glorious sunshine to eat.

Then it was another 15km ride to Leiden, which appeared to be a significant centre based on the numerous shopping outlets observed during the ride in. In the centre, Carlos and Michaela gave us a guided overview, both by bike and foot, including St Peter’s Church from which the Pilgrim Fathers left for the “New World.” Not far from there was a former prison for condemned felons - which overlooked their execution ground!
We also saw the 16th century Leiden University, the first Dutch university, housed in a former church - the university having since spread to many more buildings in the city. Further on was a plaque for the long-gone house in which Rembrandt was born. Carlos gave us a short talk on the painter, including his “Nightwatch” which we had seen a few days ago under restoration in the Rijksmuseum.

Then back to the old town to a bar on the river, which had been converted from another former prison. A glorious spot to enjoy a beer or two in the sunshine.

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Bruce Robertson

Day 6 Rest day - Keukenhof visit.
No riding today but lots of walking. We were taken to the bus station and given combination tickets for the bus and gardens which worked out great. I have never seen so many tulips – plus hyacinths, orchids, narcissi and others – and in such amazing displays. However, they were almost outnumbered by the people visiting during the limited 6-week season of the flower show. An authentic Dutch windmill in the middle was a nice reminder of where we were.

Day 7 Leiden to Amsterdam via Haarlem.
Our last bike day and the coldest day of the week. An early start at 7.30 as the barge was heading directly to Amsterdam to restock and prepare for the next tour. As there wasn't time for breakfast on board, Theo prepared, and Amerens lovingly packed up with an individual note for everyone, food-packs which we grazed on at various stops during the morning. Morning coffee was at a lovely former railway station house.

From Leiden to Haarlem is tulip country with many commercial tulip fields to brighten the day, increasing or diminishing in proximity to the stunning Keukenhof. And despite the less than optimal weather a smile spread across my face as I pedalled through the vibrant tulip fields, the sheer beauty of the scene lifting my spirits.

Day 8 "Bump out"
After 7 glorious days it is time to pack up and disembark, in our case for the train to the airport – after another stroll through amazing Amsterdam.

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Our Dutch Tulip Tour was an unforgettable experience that combined the best of cycling, scenic landscapes, and cultural exploration. From the bustling streets of Amsterdam to the serene beauty of the tulip fields, every moment was filled with wonder and delight. The exceptional crew and guides ensured a seamless journey, while the camaraderie among fellow cyclists added to the joy of the trip. Whether it was savouring Theo's gourmet meals, exploring historic cities like Delft and Leiden, or simply enjoying a beer in a picturesque square, this tour offered a perfect blend of adventure and relaxation. As we disembark and bid farewell to this enchanting journey, we carry with us cherished memories and a newfound appreciation for the beauty and charm of the Netherlands. The tour more than matched expectations.